Anti-Aging Moisturizing Lotion With Retinol

Skin Care

Anti-Aging Moisturizing Lotion With Retinol

By: TOM BRANNA

Editor

Ingredients

%

Phase A

Water (aqua) (deionized)
62.77

0

Versene NA (Dow Chemical) (Disodium EDTA)
0.05

Superol K, Glycerine 99.7% USP/FCC Kosher (P&G Chemicals) (Glycerin)
2.00u2028

Diocide (Centerchem) (Caprylyl glycol, u2028phenoxyethanol, hexylene glycol)
1.00

Triethanolamine 99% (Dow Chemical) (Triethanolamine)
0.20

BioChemica Jojoba Oil - Ultra Refined (HallStar) (Simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) seed oil)
3.00u2028

BioChemica Sunflower Seed Oil (HallStar) (Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil)
2.00

SolaStay S1 (HallStar) (Ethylhexyl methoxycrylene)
4.00

HallStar GMS Pure (HallStar) (Glyceryl stearate)
0.75

HallStar GMS SE/AS (HallStar) (Glyceryl stearate, u2028PEG-100 stearate)
2.50

HallStar TA-1618 Cetearyl Alcohol (HallStar) u2028(Cetearyl alcohol)
0.50

AS 5812 (Color Techniques) (Titanium dioxide, triethoxycaprylylsilane)
0.50u2028

BioChemica Vitamin E Natural (HallStar) (Tocopherol)
0.67

Retinol 15D (BASF) (Caprylic/capric triglyceride, retinol)
0.28

Velvesil 125 (Momentive) (Cyclopentasiloxane, u2028C30-45 alkyl cetearyl dimethicone crosspolymer)
4.50

Phase B

Carbopol ETD 2050 (Noveon /Lubrizol) (Carbomer)
0.20

Phase C

1,3-Butylene Glycol Cosmetic Quality u2028(Oxea) (Butylene glycol)
2.00

Phase D

HallStar GC (HallStar) (Caprylic/capric triglyceride)
5.00

Phase E

BioChemica Shea Butter u0096 Ultra Refined (HallStar) (Butyrospermum parkii (shea butter))
2.00

Phase F

BHT (Merisol Antioxidants) (BHT)
0.08

Phase G

Dow Corning 345 Fluid (Dow Corning) (Cyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane)
4.00u2028

Phase H

MSS-500W (Kobo Products) (Silica)
2.00

Procedure

To a suitable vessel equipped with mixing, heating and cooling capabilities, add phase A and start mixing. When dissolved, add phase B. When phase B is fully hydrated, start heating to 140°F (60°C). Premix phase C and add during the heating of this water phase. In a separate vessel, combine phase D, start mixing, and heat to 176°F (80°C). When this oil phase is at 176°F (80°C), add phase E in order. Mix until homogeneous, then cool to 149°F (65°C). Add phase F in order, with mixing, then immediately add the oil phase to the water phase when both phases are homogeneous and at their designated temperatures. Continue mixing at a high shear for two minutes. Homogenize for 10 minutes, then resume mixing and start cooling. At 122°F (50°C) or lower, add homogeneous premix of phase G and mix well. Add phase H and mix well. Cool to desired filling temperature and add water to bring to full batch mass. When again uniform, stop mixing and perform final quality assurance checks.